Gadwal - The magic of handloom weaving

Gadwal handlooms
Gadwal is known for its world famous handloom zari sarees ("Gadwal sarees"). The local weavers are talented enough to weave the 5.5 meters of saree fabric in such a way that it can be folded down to the size of a small match box. Gadwal Sarees have been very popular since the 1930s. These are cotton sarees with an attached silk border and silk pallu. Gadwal handlooms are well known for the durability of the colours used in the yarn. The mixture of colour gives the durability. Usually Gadwal handlooms are made in cotton and silk. The count used in weaving gives the softness and hardness of the fabric.  Count means the number of threads used in the length and breadth for weaving known as warp and weft respectively. Each and every thread of the Gadwal saree is hand woven. Each weaver works from home with all his / her family helping in different steps of the process. It requires approximately 4-8 days (depending on the variety of saree) of continuous efforts of two persons for weaving a saree. The core materials used for manufacturing the saree are Silk / Cotton and Zari. The silk border is either Tussar or mulberry and the body is often of unbleached cotton. It may also have colored cotton or silk checks. Pure silk versions of Gadwal sarees are also available.

Dyeing
The process of manufacturing a Gadwal Saree starts with dyeing the silk / cotton yarn.  Dyeing is the coloring process by dipping the yarn in the boiled color water in very high temperature, higher the temperature durability of colour is also higher. Dyeing of the yarn is done making sure that the color is done uniformly throughout the yarn and it doesn't affect the quality of the yarn. The coloring process is a very crucial step in getting a good saree. The colours are applied as per the specifications of the designers and also some times as per the orders from customers who orders for a designer Saree. After coloring the silk yarn is dried in shade. Drying yarn in sun can be harmful to yarn.

Weaving
After the silk yarn is dried, it is rolled over small sticks. After dyeing and drying the yarn it is converted to thread and is loaded as warp and then it is loaded into the loom for actual weaving. Gadwal Sarees are traditionally woven in the interlocked-weft technique (called Kuppadam or Tippadam locally) and often with Kotakomma (also called Kumbam) in the borders and they are known as a Kotakomma or Kumbam saree.

Design

The design required on the saree is initially drawn in a computer and then this is punched into a card and then these cards are loaded in Jacard in the loom. The needles in the Jacard will control the weft being weaved, thus producing the design in the fabric.

Decline of handloom industry
Once famous Gadwal Handloom products are now becoming extinct due to the low wages prevailing in the industry. Previously Gadwal was full of talented weavers who used to do magic in the looms to produce the best handloom products. Now you can see very small number of weavers is actually in the profession. It is informed by the locals that presently Gadwal sarees are weaved somewhere else and sold as Gadwal Sarees. There is an emergency situation to take necessary action to protect the traditional Gadwal Sarees.

Weaver's voice
The weavers demand a responsible role by the government to protect the handloom industry by providing subsidy for yarn and a rehabilitation package for the weavers who have suffered due to the rains. They hope that if the government takes the responsibility to support the handloom industry by way of showcasing and marketing the handloom products, then only the industry can survive or else the present situation has started the end of handloom industry in Gadwal. The new generation is also not interested in the profession due to the hard labour and long hours to bring out the finished product, but the returns are not lucrative to make them stay in the profession.

History

Temple

Gadwal fort

 
 

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