Sarees of Andhra Pradesh
Pochampalli: Pochampalli, located near the capital
city of Andhra Pradesh, Hyderabad, is probably one of the most flourishing
center of modern handloom industry and producing ikkat Sarees on a large scale.
The weavers in Pochampalli are basically Hindus of the Padmasali or Devang
communities who have been residents for long and have thus adopted the local
dialect and social norms. These weavers produce ikkat textiles with geometrical
designs, and have also recently started experimenting with all-Indian styles.
It is believed that ikkat technique was brought to Pochampalli from Chirala,
another town in Andhra Pradesh, a couple of generations ago, perhaps as early
as 1915 when the workshops in Chirala are said to have been weaving ikkat
Sarees, turbans etc. One of the reasons why Pochampalli Sarees find a better
market in India and abroad is, the weavers use modern synthetic colors instead
of the expensive vegetable dyes for dying, thereby not only bringing down the
cost of production, but also getting a chance to be more creative by trying out
Since the 1960's Pochampalli ikkat-weavers were
influenced by the paolu designs of Gujarat. The reasons for this influence
could be many. Migration of the weavers could be one of them. However, there
are some experts who feel that more than migration it could be influence of the
print media which could be one of the major reasons. "Weavers have probably
seen the Gujarati designs either in a magazine or might have actually seen one
of the patola fabrics. It is also possible that weavers came across the designs
at a handloom exhibition and copied the design, says some experts.